- ATV A-Arms
- ATV Nerf Bars
- ATV Heel Guards
- ATV Grab Bars
- ATV Steering Stems
- ATV Swing Arms
- ATV Subframes
- ATV Spare Parts
FAQs
Houser Racing Frequently Asked Questions
- Can I get replacement parts for my products?
- Can I get my products re-powdercoated?
- What width A-Arms should I get?
- What is Caster and how do I adjust it?
- What is the recommended Camber setting and how do I adjust it?
- What is Toe-In and how do I set my it?
- What does Pro Series mean?
- What is the difference in Regular Travel and Long Travel?
- What is the SLICAST® system?
- What is the TRICTRAC® system?
- What does Wheel Travel mean?
- Do A-Arms come with Ball Joints and Tie Rods?
- What is the stroke?
- Does Houser Racing sell Brake Lines and when do I need them?
- Does Houser Racing sell Shocks and when do I need them?
- Does Houser Racing make Handle Bars?
- What is the Houser Racing Warranty?
- Do you offer sponsorships?
- Can I get free stickers?
- What height steering stem should I get?
Can I get replacement parts for my products?
Yes, every Houser Racing product has a list of materials that are replaceable. Everything that was provided with the original purchase can be purchase separately in the event you need a replacement. Call a sales representative for pricing. 877-646-3278
Can I get my products re-powdercoated?
Yes. Visit our refurbishment section of our website here.
What width A-Arms should I get?
This depends on which type of riding you are doing. Ever set of A-Arms we offer (excluding the KTM) comes in 2 sizes. The wider of the two sizes is intended for Motorcross or Desert Racing. The narrow size is intended for Cross Country, Flat Track or Harescrambles.
- Regular Travel Cross Country A-Arms
- Regular Travel Motorcross A-Arms
- Regular Travel Flat Track A-Arms
- Long Travel Cross Country A-Arms
- Long Travel Motorcross A-Arms
- Long Travel Desert A-Arms
What is Caster and how do I adjust it?
The caster setting affects the handling of the ATV as it corners or goes in a straight line. Rotating the top ball joint toward the rear of the ATV makes the ATV handle better in a straight line. Rotating the top ball joint toward the front of the ATV, makes the ATV corner better.
In the past caster can be adjusted in several ways. In the past, we used to use hardened washers on the upper A-Arms to move the upper A-Arm. This worked, but gave you little adjustment. Some of our competitors have used heim joints on the Upper A-Arms are the frame mount. They are extremely difficult to adjust and wear out quickly. They were a major burnden to the average racer. In 2006 we released the Slicast® Caster Adjustment. This is a fixed caster adjustment at the ball joint. You can read more here. In 2007 we developed a movable caster adjustment, called the TricTrac®. It is by far the most innovative caster adjustment on the market today. Learn more about the TricTrac® here.
Read the Caster Install Guide here:
What is a recommended Camber setting and how do I adjust it?
Typically you should set your Camber as follows:
- Cross Country - 1-2 degrees
- Motorcross - 3-4 degrees
Click here to read the installation guide for Camber Adjustments.
What is Toe-in and how do I set it?
The Toe-in adjustment is, made by pointing your wheels "in" in the front. This measurement effects how well the ATV handles. This measurement could be unique to each ATV. The toe-in adjustment is made by loosening the tie rods and moving them inward or outward. We usually recommend 1/8" total toe-in for the front tires.
Read our instructions on how to adjust the toe-in here.
The Pro-Series A-Arm Kit has increased performance, it is lightweight, durable, easy to install, and easy to maintain. It has great features like our Maximum Ground Clearance and SLICAST®, plus it's upgradeable. All this for an affordable price. You are sure to blow away the competition with our Pro-Series A-Arm Kit.
Upper A-Arms:
- Comes Standard with Needle Bearings and Seals which are pressed into a replaceable Aluminum Housing
- Chrome Dust Covers with integrated seal
- Needle Bearing and Seal Assemblies are installed into our clamping style upper A-Arm
- This clamping style upper A-Arm allows you to upgrade using our TRICTRAC® conversion Kit
- Comes standard with SLICAST® Caster Adjustment
- Aluminum SLICAST® Cam
- Purchase TRICTRAC® Kit Part # 100701 separately



Lower A-Arms:
- Made with lighterweight, stronger tubing 1 1/8" OD with a thinner wall
- 2 1/2 lbs lighter and 15% stronger than standard 1" tube
- Comes standard with Needle Bearings, Seals, and Chrome Dust Covers
- A-Arm tube is tapered, increasing strength
- Has a bent cross bar, which is both functional and cosmetic
- Maximum Ground Clearance to help avoid roots, ruts, rocks, and logs. Standard on most Cross Country and Motorcross widths.
What is the difference in Regular Travel and Long Travel?
This used to be a very simple, cut and dry answer, but over the years, the vocabulary has changed. Vaguely speaking in Houser Racing terms, Long Travel means you need a different shock, while Regular Travel means you can use your stock shock.
The long answer is....
The phrase 'Long Travel' was first introduced when riders wanted more Wheel Travel. More Wheel Travel meant - lengthening the shock. Back in the 250R days, the OEM/Stock A-Arms didn't get enough Wheel Travel. The riders kept wanting more. They really wanted close to 12" of wheel travel. Today, 10.5" has become the industry norm. 10.5" extends your wheel travel, but doesn't negatively effect your ATVs handling.
Until 2006, Long Travel always meant using a longer shock than OEM. Instead of a 16" we would use something like 20". What changed in 2006? Suzuki released the LT-R450 Race Ready ATV. This ATV came with 'Long Travel' suspension from stock. Many other ATV manufacturing companies decided to follow suit. This was awesome for customers...but essentially changed the vocabulary for all of us aftermarket guys.
Long Travel no longer means 'Long Travel'/Extended Travel, it means aftermarket shock. There are many criteria that we try to meet when developing Long Travel A-Arms. 10.5" of Wheel Travel and a 5.5" Stroke are our primary concerns. If we can meet these criteria, we devlope the Long Travel A-Arm.
Regular Travel simply means we re-use the OEM shock location, allowing the rider to use OEM length shocks on aftermarket A-Arms.
The Slicast® caster adjustment is the only caster adjustment on the market today that can be adjusted independently from the camber setting. The Aluminum Slicast® Feature has 11 settings, each giving you 0.5 degrees of caster change. Each setting is labeled for ease of use. The Slicast® rotates like a cam or bearing carrier, with the ball joint hole being on an eccentric. To adjust the Slicast®, simply untighten the upper ball joint jam nut 3/16" and pop out the Slicast® CAM. Turn the cam to the desired rotation (caster setting) and press back in, tighten your jam nut & ride with the new Slicast® setting.
How does the Caster Setting affect the handling of your ATV?
The caster setting affects the handling of the ATV as it corners or goes in a straight line. Rotating the top ball joint toward the rear of the ATV makes the ATV handle better in a straight line. Rotating the top ball joint toward the front of the ATV, makes the ATV corner better.
What Slicast® setting is best for me?
There is not an overall best setting. The Slicast® Cam should be adjusted to reflect: your unique riding style, the terrain you are riding in, and the type of riding you are doing.
Houser Racing's Patented TricTrac® system is a movable caster adjustment.
- Works with Houser Racing Pro Series A-Arm sets only
- Automatic Caster Adjustment While you Ride
- Quicker and Easier Steering Helps you Corner Faster
- Less Twitchy on Fast Straight sections of the Track
- Brass Bushing and Worm Gear Design
See which models allow for the TricTrac® upgrade here.
Wheel Travel is the distance the wheels travel when the shock is compressed. This measurement is taken into account when the A-Arms are engineered. Houser Racing recommends 10 1/2" of wheel travel for all types of racing except Desert Racing , which we recommend 11 1/2" of Wheel Travel. When measuring for the shock Free Length - use a 12" Stand under the frame. When measuring for the shock Compressed Length - use a 1 1/2" block (2 x 4) under the frame. 12" Stand - 1 1/2" Black = 10 1/2" Wheel Travel.
Do A-Arms come with Ball Joints and Tie Rods?
Yes, both. We install FRAP sealed ball joints on all of our A-Arm sets. The Sealed Ball Joint keeps grease in and dirt out. We manufacture our own tie rods. The are designed to use OEM Tie Rod Ends.
Stroke is the distance the internal shaft in the shock travels when compressed. This measurement is the free length minus the compressed length of the shock. Houser Racing recommends 5 1/2" of stroke for optimum shock tuning.
Does House Racing sell Brake Lines and when do I need them?
Yes we do. We sell Streamline Performance Brakes. Stainless Steel Braided Brake Lines function better than standard rubber lines. You would want to consider getting new brake lines for the following:
- You have replaced your A-Arms with something wider than stock
- You got a taller steering stem - +2" Height
- You want better braking ability
See our full line of Front Brake Lines here.
See our full line of Rear Brake Lines here.
Does Houser Racing sell Shocks and when do I need them?
Yes we do. We work with some of the best shock manufacturing companies in the world. You need to purchase aftermarket shocks when you use Long Travel A-Arms. We work directly with and can distribute:
- Fox Racing Shox
- Elka Suspension
- Custom Axis
Does Houser Racing make Handle Bars?
No, we do not make handle bars, but we do sell them. We recommend the Fasst Co Quad Racer Low Flexx Handle Bar.
What is the Houser Racing Warranty?
Simply, we offer a 1 year manufacturing warranty. You can rear our full Warranty here.
Yes we do. We offer a wide range of sponsorships to all levels of riders. Visit our sponsorship page to learn more.
Well, since every sticker does add a horsepower....Just Kidding! Yes, you can request stickers. Please be curtious of your requests, as we do pay for decals and we get the highest quality of decal available. Send your requests to rob@houser-racing.com
What height steering stem should I get?
Houser Racing can't tell you which steering stem height is best for you, but we can give you some guidelines. The height of the stem you should get depends on a couple things:
- How tall the rider is. If you are over 6' you may want to consider a +1" or +2".
- Are you using an oversized gas tank? If so, definitely get a +1" or consider the +2" if it's available.
- What bend handle bar are you using? A lower bend bar can be counter acted by the height of the stem...so be sure to get what you really want. We recommend the Quad Racer Low from Fasst Flexx Company.


