ATV A-Arms, Yamaha YFZ450 2006-13 and Yamaha Raptor 700 2006-13, Regular Travel | Slicast® +1/2" Wide

SLICAST^®

The SLICAST^® caster adjustment is the only caster adjustment on the market today that can be adjusted independently from the camber setting. The Aluminum SLICAST^® Feature has 11 settings, each giving you 0.5 degrees of caster change. Each setting is labeled for ease of use. The SLICAST^® rotates like a cam or bearing carrier, with the ball joint hole being on an eccentric. To adjust the SLICAST^®, simply untighten the upper ball joint jam nut 3/16” and pop out the SLICAST^® CAM. Turn the cam to the desired rotation (caster setting) and press back in, tighten your jam nut, & ride with the new SLICAST^® setting.

How does the Caster Setting affect the handling of your ATV?
The Caster Setting affects the handling of the ATV as it corners or goes in a straight line. Rotating the top ball joint toward the rear of the ATV makes the ATV handle better in a straight line. Rotating the top ball joint toward the front of the ATV, makes the ATV corner better.

What SLICAST^® setting is best for me?
There is not an overall best setting. The SLICAST^® Cam should be adjusted to reflect: your unique riding style, the terrain you are riding in, and the type of riding you are doing.

Upgradable to TRICTRAC^® Automatic Caster System

Our Patented TRICTRAC^® feature is the world's first and only automatic caster adjustment. The Pro Series Upper A-Arm set comes with a clamping mechanism that allows you to remove the needle bearing holds and replace them with out TRICTRAC^® System. The needle bearing assembly can easily be removed from this clamp by loosening two bolts with an allen wrench. Once the needle bearing assembly is removed, it can be upgraded to the TRICTRAC^® system, or replaced with another needle bearing assembly.

The TRICTRAC^® system is an automatic caster adjustment. While the ATV is in motion, the cast is continually changing. The TRICTRAC^® assembly consists of a brass bushing and worm gear. This assembly replaces the needle bearing and seal assembly in the Pro Series Upper A-Arms. This assembly allows the Upper A-Arm to move forward and backward while the ATV is in motion.

As you go into a turn and the shocks compress, the A-Arms move upward on the pivot point. The TRICTRAC^® rotates the A-arms forward toward the front of the ATV decreasing caster, allowing the ATV handle better while turning. As you speed up out of a turn and the shocks extend, the A-Arms move downward at the pivot point. The TRICTRAC^® rotates the A-Arm toward the rear of the ATV increasing caster, allowing the ATV to handle better in a straight line. With 10.5" of wheel travel, the TRICTRAC^® will offer 2.5 degrees of caster adjustment. To put it simply, the A-Arm rotates backwards and forwards through the stroke of the shock, altering your caster setting while you ride.

Purchase Part # 060701 with this A-Arm Set to upgrade to TRICTRAC^® Automatic Caster Adjustment.

Shock Specifications: Yamaha YFZ450 2006-13 and Yamaha Raptor 700 2006-13 Regular Travel A-Arms

Shock Vocabulary:

1. Shock Free Length: The measurement of the shock (eyelet hole to eyelet hole) when the ATV is at a completely extended state. The measurement is taken with the ATV up on a stand without the shocks installed. Houser Racing recommends a 12" stand to achieve 10 1/2" of wheel travel.
2. Shock Compressed Length: The measurement of the shock (eyelet hole to eyelet hole) when the ATV is at a completely compressed state. The measurement is taken when the ATV is 1 1/2" from the ground.
3. Shock Stroke: The distance the internal shaft in the shock travels when compressed. This measurement is the free length minus the compressed length of the shock. Houser Racing recommends 5 1/2" of stroke for optimum shock tuning.
4. Wheel Travel: The distance the wheels travel when the shock is compressed. This measurement is taken into account when the A-Arms are engineered. Houser Racing recommends 10 1/2" of wheel travel for all types of racing except Desert Racing , which we recommend 11 1/2" of Wheel Travel. When measuring for the shock Free Length - use a 12" Stand under the frame. When measuring for the shock Compressed Length - use a 1 1/2" block (2 x 4) under the frame. 12" Stand - 1 1/2" Black = 10 1/2" Wheel Travel.

How to properly measure for the correct length shocks:

Click here to watch our YouTube Video.

1. Determine which amount of Wheel Travel is best for you. 10 1/2" is typical for MX and XC racing, 11 1/2" is typical for Desert Racing. We will measure for 10 1/2" in this demonstration.
2. You will need a tape measure, 1 1/2" stand (2 x 4 boards), 12" stand, and an ATV.
3. Install your A-Arms according to proper installation instructions. Leave the shocks off. Leave the tires on.
4. Place your 1 1/2" stand under the ATV frame.
5. Lower the ATV onto the stand, allowing the ATV to completely compress to the ground.
6. Measure for your Compressed Shock Length - take a measurement from center of hole on the upper shock location to the center of hole on the lower shock location. Note this measurement.
7. Raise the ATV up.
8. Remove the 1 1/2" stand.
9. Place the 12" stand under the ATV frame.
10. Lower the ATV onto the stand, allowing the ATV to settle on the stand. The wheels should not be touching the ground.
11. Measure for your Free Shock Length - take a measurement from center of hole on the upper shock location to the center of hole on the lower shock location. Note this measurement.
12. Determine your stroke - the free length minus the compressed length equals the stroke.

Pro Series

The Pro-Series A-Arm Kit has increased performance, it is lightweight, durable, easy to install, and easy to maintain. It has great features like our Maximum Ground Clearance and SLICAST^®, plus it's upgradeable. All this for an affordable price. You are sure to blow away the competition with our Pro-Series A-Arm Kit.

Upper A-Arms:

• Comes Standard with Needle Bearings and Seals which are pressed into a replaceable Aluminum Housing
• Chrome Dust Covers with integrated seal
• Needle Bearing and Seal Assemblies are installed into our clamping style upper A-Arm
• This clamping style upper A-Arm allows you to upgrade using our TRICTRAC^® conversion Kit
• Comes standard with SLICAST^® Caster Adjustment
• Aluminum SLICAST^® Cam
• Purchase TRICTRAC^® Kit Part # 060701 separately

Lower A-Arms:

• Made with lighterweight, stronger tubing 1 1/8" OD with a thinner wall
• 2 1/2 lbs lighter and 15% stronger than standard 1" tube
• Comes standard with Needle Bearings, Seals, and Chrome Dust Covers
• A-Arm tube is tapered, increasing strength
• Has a bent cross bar, which is both functional and cosmetic
• Maximum Ground Clearance to help avoid roots, ruts, rocks, and logs. Standard on most Cross Country and Motorcross widths.